It starts raining in Seoul.
The sky turns gray, umbrellas open everywhere, and sooner or later someone says:
“Pajeon and makgeolli?”
For Koreans, the combination feels completely natural.
But for a foreign visitor, it raises an obvious question.
What does rain have to do with Korean pancakes?
Growing up in Korea, I never thought much about it. Rainy weather and jeon simply seemed to belong together. Even today, hearing rain outside can make a hot, crispy pancake suddenly sound like a very good idea.
There isn't one proven historical explanation for this habit.
But there are a few reasons why the connection makes surprisingly good sense.
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| Korean pajeon and makgeolli beside a rainy window in Seoul |
First, What Exactly Is Jeon?
Foreigners sometimes translate jeon (전) simply as a Korean pancake.
That's useful, but it doesn't tell the whole story.
Jeon is a broad category of Korean dishes made by pan-frying ingredients, often with flour batter or an egg coating.
There are dozens of variations.
Pajeon (파전) uses green onions. Add squid, shrimp or other seafood and you get haemul pajeon (해물파전).
Kimchijeon (김치전) uses kimchi and has a stronger, slightly spicy flavor.
Gamjajeon (감자전) is made with potato and can have a wonderfully chewy texture.
Then there's bindaetteok (빈대떡), a thick savory pancake made primarily from ground mung beans.
The common denominator?
They're at their best when they come straight from a hot pan.
Crispy around the edges.
Hot and savory inside.
And even better when it's raining outside.
Does Rain Really Sound Like Jeon Frying?
This is probably the explanation you'll hear most often from Koreans.
Listen to rain hitting a window, roof or pavement:
sssshhhhhh...
Now listen to batter hitting an oiled frying pan:
sssshhhhhh...
You get the idea.
The Korea Tourism Organization also introduces this familiar explanation, noting the association between the sound of raindrops and the sizzling sound of pajeon frying in oil.
Korea.net similarly notes that several explanations exist, including the similarity between the sound of rainfall and frying jeon. Another explanation it mentions is that high humidity may help the aroma of frying food spread and stimulate the sense of smell.
But here's the important part:
Nobody can point to a particular day in Korean history when someone heard rain and invented this tradition.
It's better understood as a cultural association that became stronger over generations.
You hear rain.
You remember the sizzling pan.
You remember eating jeon.
And suddenly you're hungry.
Sometimes culture works exactly like that.
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| Korean jeon sizzling in a frying pan on a rainy day |
And Then Comes Makgeolli
Of course, jeon is only half of the famous combination.
The other half is makgeolli (막걸리).
Makgeolli is a traditional Korean fermented alcoholic drink usually made from rice, water and nuruk, a Korean fermentation starter.
It's cloudy and milky-looking, usually slightly sweet and tangy, although flavors vary considerably between different makgeolli.
And it goes remarkably well with jeon.
Hot, oily and savory jeon meets cool, slightly tart makgeolli.
It's one of those combinations where each makes the other more enjoyable.
The Korea Tourism Organization specifically describes pajeon as a food that pairs well with Korean rice wine and is strongly associated with rainy days.
But the experience isn't only about taste.
It's also about atmosphere.
Imagine sitting inside a small Korean restaurant.
Rain is hitting the window.
There's a huge pajeon in the middle of the table.
Someone pours makgeolli.
Nobody is in much of a hurry to leave.
That's the experience foreigners should try at least once.
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| Makgeolli served with haemul pajeon at a Korean restaurant |
Pajeon Isn't the Only Rainy-Day Choice
If you don't like green onions or seafood, don't worry.
There's plenty of jeon to choose from.
Kimchijeon
This might be my recommendation if you already love kimchi.
It's savory, slightly spicy and particularly good when the edges are fried until crispy.
Gamjajeon
Potato pancakes are especially associated with Gangwon Province, where potatoes are a major regional ingredient.
The texture is different from pajeon—often softer and pleasantly chewy inside.
Bindaetteok
If you visit Gwangjang Market in Seoul, you'll see large mung bean pancakes frying on griddles.
They're thicker and heartier than a typical pajeon.
Watching them cook is almost as enjoyable as eating them.
And yes, makgeolli works here too.
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| Different types of Korean jeon including pajeon, kimchijeon and bindaetteok |
Where Can Foreigners Try the Rainy-Day Tradition in Seoul?
You don't need to find a fancy restaurant to experience Korea's rainy-day food culture.
If you see 전집 (jeonjip) on a sign, you've found a restaurant specializing in jeon. But if you're visiting Seoul for the first time, there are a couple of places where the experience is especially easy—and much more interesting.
Gwangjang Market
For a first-time visitor, Gwangjang Market is one of the easiest places in Seoul to experience this side of Korean food culture.
Walk through the market and you'll hear it before you taste it: oil sizzling on large griddles as thick bindaetteok (빈대떡) cooks until golden and crispy.
Bindaetteok is made primarily from ground mung beans, so it's different from the flour-based pancake many foreigners imagine when they hear the word jeon. It's hearty, crispy on the outside, and especially satisfying with a bowl of makgeolli.
And Gwangjang Market offers much more than just bindaetteok.
You'll find stalls serving gimbap, noodles, tteokbokki, sundae and other traditional market foods, making it a great place to explore several flavors of Korea in one visit.
Want to Explore Gwangjang Market with a Local Guide?
If you'd rather experience the market while also discovering some of central Seoul's most interesting neighborhoods, I actually include Gwangjang Market in my own small-group walking tour.
We start in the traditional alleys of Ikseon-dong, continue to Jogyesa Temple, walk along Cheonggyecheon Stream, and finish at Gwangjang Market.
At the market, I'll introduce you to popular Korean foods and explain some of the cultural stories behind what you're seeing. Food purchases are optional, so you can decide for yourself what looks good—and yes, bindaetteok is definitely something worth looking for.
The tour is limited to six people, so it's designed to feel more like exploring Seoul together than following a large tour group.
👉 Book my Seoul Small-Group Walking Tour with Gwangjang Market on GetYourGuide
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| Bindaetteok sizzling on a griddle at Gwangjang Market in Seoul |
Hoegi Pajeon Alley
If your main goal is specifically pajeon and makgeolli, another good choice is Hoegi Pajeon Alley near Hoegi Station.
Unlike Gwangjang Market, where you can explore many different Korean market foods, Hoegi is more focused on the classic pajeon experience.
Order a large haemul pajeon for the table, add makgeolli if you drink alcohol, and take your time.
If it happens to be raining outside?
Even better.
A Small Makgeolli Tip for First-Timers
One thing foreign visitors sometimes find interesting is how makgeolli is served.
In traditional-style restaurants, you may get a kettle or bottle of makgeolli with small bowls rather than Western-style wine glasses.
And don't expect every makgeolli to taste the same.
Some are sweet and lightly sparkling. Others are dry, tart, creamy or much more noticeably fermented.
If you try one and don't like it, that doesn't necessarily mean you don't like makgeolli.
You may simply prefer another style.
And, of course, makgeolli contains alcohol, so you don't need it to participate in the rainy-day ritual.
Jeon tastes perfectly good without it.
